Pulque is an emblematic Mexican milky alcoholic beverage made of fermented agave nectar also known in Spanish as aguamiel.
What is Pulque?
The agave nectar is extracted from the maguey plant and mixed with xnaxtli seed to initiate the fermentation process.
This beverage has been made since pre-Hispanic times in Mexico and Central America. Its preparation is fairly complicated which requires several tools and processes, taking months to complete.
The consumption of pulque is a deep-rooted tradition. The original places where it was served were taverns called Pulquerias where only men were allowed. However, this drink already existed before the Spanish conquerors arrived in the Americas. The Mexicas (Aztecs) were the first indigenous people to develop it and drank it in rituals to their Gods.
Several of its nutrients include protein, phosphorous, calcium, magnesium, potassium and iron. Interestingly, it is believed that pulque has curative properties such as helping to decrease sugar levels in diabetics, combating anemia, and helping to improve gastrointestinal problems.
Today, pulque is produced in the estate of Hidalgo, Mexico, and is consumed mainly in rural areas. However, Mexico City’s restaurateurs are bringing back this traditional drink with a modern twist. Contemporary pulquerias are opening their doors where a new generation can drink it, listening to contemporary music in a modern, yet traditionally-decorated, place. Moreover, some pulquerias are decorated with allusive murals from Fernando Robles, protesting the Mexican government, which is failing to protect farmers and field workers that cultivate maguey and produce the drink.
Following pulque traditions, it is highly important to pair it with appropriated hors d’oeuvres such as the costly maguey worm, escargot or guacamole. On the other hand, this beverage has a series of rituals and ways of drinking it that include the way it is mixed with different ingredients. The most famous of them and traditional is the cocktail called Curado.
Curado de Pulque
Pulque can be drunk straight from the barrel or can have a number of additives, such as fruit or nuts, added. Pulque prepared this way is called curado which means cured.
At the beginning of the 19th Century, people were looking for new cocktail flavors by mixing in seasonal fruits, giving origin to “los curados”. The biological richness of Mexico and the intense commercial and socio-cultural exchange during the 1800’s resulted in curados with an expansive variety of fruits and nuts. However, one of the limitations of pulque’s popularity has been the inability to store it for long periods of time since it is highly perishable. Thus, preparing this cocktail requires selecting high quality ingredients in a cold environment.
Today, Francisco (Paco) Perez, has taken a chance on the impossible: bringing natural pulque to Aqui es Texcoco®, in San Diego county. Currently, the restaurant is the only location in California serving non-canned pulque and curados. You can enjoy pulque as a mango, pecan, or oat meal curado cocktail or in the traditional way. If it happens that you are in the area, stop by Aqui es Texcoco® and maybe, if you are lucky enough, you can get another seasonal fruit flavor depending on the time of year.
References:
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulque
- http://www.degustar.com.mx/articulos/cultura-articulos/el-pulque-y-los-curados/
- http://www.slideshare.net/veroethel/del-pulque-a-los-curados-14226203
- http://www.mexicodesconocido.com.mx/los-pulques-de-apan.html
- http://www.aquiesTexcoco.com/the-amazing-maguey-plant/
- http://todoculturaagencia.blogspot.com/2010/11/los-insurgentes-contemporanea-pulqueria.html
- http://gacetagastronomicademexico.blogspot.com/2008/11/la-fruta-y-la-bebida-de-los-dioses.html
- https://www.facebook.com/aztecaedomex/videos/1056646464371678/?pnref=story
I have been at Aqui es Texcoco and had its good barbacoa with a glass of pulque. I liked the food and selection, and fair prices. I live in the San Jose CA area and have a few magueyes, I harvested one maguey and started making pulque by bringing a liter of pulque from Aqui es Texcoco, used it as a starter ( oh yeah all the way from Chula Vista CA). I appreciate very much to have persons like Mr. Paco Perez that take pride in offering the original foods, and drinks that revives our memories del rancho, si iñor. Gracias.
Thank you Rigo for your feedback. We are so glad you had a great experience!
We hope to see you back soon!